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2011 B52 w PCM LY6, 410 hp, V-8 OVERHEAT problems

overheat PCM 2011 b52 ly6

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#1 btvMike

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 10:57 AM

I bought my 2011 in April 2012 (was a left over from 2011).  It has the big PCM (6.1 or 6,2, 410hp).  I have only managed to get a whopping 35 hours on the boat.  Mainly due to problems.  I missed a month last year, due to the heat exchanger not being properly winterized, causing break in the coils and thus the following overheating issues.  The dealer and PCM got into a pissing match over who would pay for the parts and labor.  I ended up getting the short end of the stick, and it wasn't until I got really pissed after 3 weeks that stuff finally got moving.  Everything ran great on the boat for the rest of the season.  (mind you I am in Vermont where summer lasts only 3-4 months on the lake).  Successfully finally broke the boat in.

 

Now this year, I having overheating problems and have spent $700 already and have lost 2 weeks on the lake already this year.  Dealer hasn't been able to figure this out.  Ended up changing the impeller, which was not terrible, but was not perfect either.  They checked everything, many hours and then water tested it for an hour and could not get it to overheat.  I take it out a few times and then last night on a slow cruise, it starts to overheat.  I am at a no wake speed, (1500 RPMs) for 5 minutes.  My slip space requires a 10min no wake ride to get out of breakwater, so did this lots last summer.  I hit the throttle as an experiment and get up to 30mph at 3500RPM and the temp comes down.  I head back home and as soon as I slow down, the temp starts creeping back up.

 

Anyone else seen this problem?

I see some stuff about pump wiring voltage issues, but thread is unclear.

Any suggestions greatly appreciated.

Bummed out on vacation week,

mike

 

 

 

 



#2 Smokinjo

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 01:13 PM

Did you change the Thermostat? If it is sticking it will overheat as you described. Did dealer flush the lines, heat exchanger and all when it happened first time. A piece of rubber impeller in the heat exchanger can cause what you describe as well. Is Dexcool filled up in the overflow tank? I would start with the thermostat, which can stick after initially overheating.

#3 WakeDirt

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 02:04 PM

I had an impeller go on my old centurion, and I ran a garden hose through all the water fittings forwards and backwards...and it blew me away the amount of impeller that came out. Problem solved.  It was literally a small handful...could have been parts from a previous impeller even. 

I would remove the main hose at the base of the pump, and raise up the trailer jack, and start pumping some water....I would do your dex cool while you're at it.  Even though it says to do it every 5 years or 300 hrs I think.  It is a separate cooling pump, and circulates on its own independent of the lake water.  Your manual will have it and the manual is online via pdf also to show the flow diagram. 

I found most crap expelled during the backwards flow with the garden hose.



#4 WakeDirt

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 02:05 PM

you can get a thermostat at autozone



#5 tjishere4good

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 06:04 PM

I know they say not to but I took my  thermostat out was tired of temp sitting at 190 200 now it is a cool 150.  I should say my lake temp in the summer is in the upper 80s.

 



#6 Smokinjo

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Posted 03 July 2013 - 08:25 PM

I know they say not to but I took my  thermostat out was tired of temp sitting at 190 200 now it is a cool 150.  I should say my lake temp in the summer is in the upper 80s.


Your engine will not be as efficient burning fuel running that cool. Thermostats are designed to have the motor run at optimal temp for best performance and fuel burn. If you were running at 190-200, you have another problem that is not thermostat.

#7 jaed

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 07:45 AM

I had a overheating problem at clear lake a few weeks ago. The impeller was fine but the filter cup right after the intake was packed full of crap. You might have looked at that but just a idea.

#8 mossy

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 09:08 AM

That sound about right. Clearlake is full of alot of crap for sure.



#9 jaed

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 02:08 PM

Launched once and it overheated in 2 min then cleaned and checked everything. The second launch was only 1 min before that filter was clogged just as bad as the first time. Not going back there again. Never had a issue with that filter before that lake.

#10 somepeteguy

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Posted 04 July 2013 - 07:04 PM

That sound about right. Clearlake is full of alot of crap for sure.

 

 I have no idea about what you are talking about.


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#11 btvMike

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Posted 08 July 2013 - 07:19 PM

Ok, it was the heat exchanger.  It blew out on Saturday.  This is the second year.  Anyone else have this go every year?   Last year it had to be replaced.  This year same thing.  And the people that did it this year swore they knew what they were doing when winterizing.  



#12 Nick

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:31 PM

btvMike, I had the same problem towards the end of last summer, and just had to keep filling it up with anti-freeze. We live in CA but go to Lake Mead for a month in July, so I am stuck out there with families coming out so we could not get the boat out of the water. Anyway, when I took it in to get serviced last April, I told Green House Marine about the overheating problem and they said the heater was not installed properly, so I had to pay for a heater connection kit. Obviously that was not the reason as my boat started overheating the fourth time out this year. I had the guys look at it at Callville Bay in Lake Mead and they cannot figure it out, ordered an impeller that will take a few days to get here. I am going to tell them to check the heater exchanger. How did you figure that out? We have a 2010 F23 Tomcat with the PCM 2010 Catanium CES 6.0L ZR-409 engine. This is the second year in a row we are dealing with the overheating and still cannot figure it out. Any suggestios/advice would be greatly appreciated.



#13 Nick

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Posted 10 July 2013 - 04:35 PM

By the way, we do not winterize our boat as we live in southern CA.



#14 Nick

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 03:14 PM

how much was it to replace the heat exchanger? I am wondering if I have that same problem, as my issue never got resolved either.



#15 btvMike

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Posted 11 July 2013 - 06:58 PM

New news, when I was getting towed in the other day to the dock, a mechanic that is familiar with inboard said it was the heat exchanger, and this was my problem last year.   So the dealer has had it all week.  I kept pressing them to do a pressure test on the coolant system.  They said they did it before, but they did not.  The connector is NOT a typical connection.  They got one from the mac tool guy and tested it.  They left me a voice mail when they closed saying they found 2 problems.  Not sure if they are related to the heat exchanger, but the voicemail message said they found something wrong that has been that way since the engine was put together.  No idea what that means, will call them in the morning.   Stay tuned....  

 

@nick, I have the same engine you do...



#16 btvMike

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 08:02 AM

Latest news.  5 leaks in coolant system when put under 20 lbs of pressure.  Heat exchanger is fine.  Dealer had to spend $250 for a special size adaptor to be able to pressure test the system.  If a 20yo dealership doesn't have it, it means it isn't standard so most dealers can't pressure test the coolant system.   So under pressure, it leaks in 5 places.  Mind you, this is ALL stuff that is from the factory still.  4 were hoses not put on well and one is a cast iron splitter.  Yes, it is leaking through the cast iron.  They have contacted PCM, although PCM is slow to respond. 

 

Personally I emailed and called PCM earlier this week.  It is not friday, no email back, no call back.  Conceptually these guys have good engines, but in reality, the quality is just not there.

 

My advice, avoid a PCM engine.  The quality and service/support are just not there.   



#17 Shawndoggy

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 08:44 AM

affixing hoses is not a pcm issue, that's an installer (MB) issue.  The cast iron splitter does sound like a pcm issue.  Is it cracked?  I doubt that your engine water pump can create 20lbs of pressure.... probably more like 5-6.  



#18 btvMike

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 09:05 AM

MB drops the engine in.  These are all hoses that are part of the cooling system on the engine.  Yes the splitter was cracked.  Water coming trough metal parts is bad.

 

You are right, the water pump can't produce 20lbs of pressure, but that is how you test the system, put it under pressure.  It was leaking way before 20lbs.  They tested up to 20 lbs.  



#19 Greeko

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 09:30 AM

I agree with btvMike, When testing a hydraulic system your testing pressure is higher than operating pressure...Safety factor...


2015 Tige Z3 with AVX

Sold:2012 MB Sports F21 Tomcat


#20 Shawndoggy

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Posted 12 July 2013 - 09:55 AM

Will a little JB weld fix the crack? At least for now till you get the splitter replaced.





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