Popular Post Hyperryd Posted July 22, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 It was time to replace my PSS seal on my 2011 B52, so I searched the threads to find the best option to use for replacement. Surprisingly there is a lot of opinion and not a lot of facts out there between the PSS, the OJ and the Glide Bearing Seals. After reading what I could I felt the best option might be the Glide Bearing dripless seal. I called them up and ended up speaking with the owner Tim. Tim's a great guy and truely a boat fanatic. After a good discussion I decided to try the GMSS SC Pro Kit. The SC stands for Split cap and the Pro designates the kit also has the strut bearings that I wanted to go ahead and replace since I was pulling the shaft anyways. The split cap set up is new. It is pretty sweet in that it includes a spare seal that rides on the shaft in front of the housing. When the seal does eventually need replacement, you simply remove the split cap, pry out and remove the old seal and then slide the seal that is already on the shaft down and replace the split cap. Essentially you get two seals for the price of one and you don't have to remove the shaft from the coupler to do the second seal! Out of the box, the pro kit looks like this. It comes with the seal body, install tool pre installed, the spare seal, hose & fittings to supply water, and the strut bearings. The first thing I did was to remove the propeller. Then I needed to remove the shaft and PSS seal. The coupler was a real pain since it is a reverse coupler and I didn't have the special tool. I removed the shaft nut, the coupler bolts and the shaft set screw. I then used a couple of box wrenches between the coupler and the V-drive and reinstalled & hand tightened the coupler bolts. I then tapped on the front of the shaft with the side of a hammer. There isn't a lot of room so I wasn't a lot of impact. After the third tap the shaft popped loose and I removed the coupler. With the shaft out I loosened the hose clamps on the PSS seal and pulled it out of the boat. I then had to take emery cloth to the area on the shaft where the PSS set screws set against the shaft. You don't want anything to make a break in the new seal. The last piece of demo is to remove the strut bearings. This turned into a bit of a chore on a 108 degree day. I used a hack saw blade to cut the existing rubber and metal bearings. I kept stopping to see if I was cutting into the strut. It is hard to tell what is bearing and what is strut. In the end after stopping 10 times I was able to make two cuts in the bearing and then use a screw driver to pry them out. This was probably the hardest part of the whole job. If you just do the shaft seal this isn't neccesary. I wanted to just be fresh all the way through. Warning, this can turn your Snap On screw driver into a snap off screwdriver! Now that all of the old parts are out, it was time to install the new ones. The strut bearings are to be put in the freezer the night before. To install you just insert them into the strut with the splines of the bearings configured the same on the front bearing and the rear. It was so hot the day I installed them that about half way in they got stuck and I had to use a piece of wood and a small hammer to get them all the way in. According to Tim they normally go all the way in and then expand as they warm up. Wait about 15 minutes and then you can reinstall the shaft. Next up is the seal kit. The kit comes complete with the seal housing, bellows, and spare seal all preinstalled on the install tool. Just slide the bellows over the shaft log and tighten the clamps. Then slide the shaft through the housing and V-drive. The install tool will be on the end of the shaft. Remove the tool and reinstall the coupler. Slide the spare seal down to about 2" above the housing cap. It will stay there until you need it. The last thing I did was to install the water line. The kit comes with all of the clamps and fittings to tie into the raw water intake after the v-drive. I decided to instead run the 3/8" line to a port on the raw water pump. I didn't get any pics of that, but it is pretty straight forward. Remember to tighten everything up and reinstall the prop. When I took it to the lake it worked perfectly with no leaks. The low speed growl in turns and a slight vibration I had at idle speed were gone. At full throttle I'm still pretty loud, but that really increased when I went to the 15" prop and didn't change with the new kit. Overall this is a very nice kit. Without the strut bearings it probably would have been around 2 hours. This isn't an easy job, but it isn't so hard that you need to pay the dealer ungodly money to do it! The standard GMSS SC kit goes for $195 and the SC Pro kit with the strut bearings lists for $255. Talking with Tim I found out that he designed and builds the OJ dripless seal for them. He came up with his improved design with the new Glide Bearings seals. OJ also distributes the GB kit to most of the manufacturers. That is why there is confusion as to the OEM seal being a GB or OJ. They are GB distributed by OJ. The new split cap isn't on the factory boats. They still sell the regular cap version, but I don't know the price. In talking to Tim he is working on a discount for MB Boat Owners members. I will let you know as soon as he figures it out. For now you can PM Tim@Glide on this site. He will help you figure out what you need for your boat or just answer your questions. He's a good dude. You can also go to their website at www.glidebearings.com and find their contact info. They don't have an online store yet because there are so many size options they want to confirm what you need before they sell it to you. So far so good. I think I made the right decision with Glide Bearings and I hope this thread helps you guys make your decision. It's also to show that you can do this yourself if you don't want to pay the dealer labor rate! Dirty Sancho, MWCasper, Racer808 and 13 others 15 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake (((O))) Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Slick  Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk   Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hondatech117 Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 As usual, awesome write up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeffO Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Great write up! Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Good stuff! Â Cutting out the strut bearing very much reminds me of the time I had to cut a campy bottom bracket out of a steel road bike frame. Â Used the same "slice of pie" method and corresponding sweating about cutting too far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsmobiledriver Posted July 22, 2017 Report Share Posted July 22, 2017 Nice write up dude!!! It's a project for sure!!! The plastic cutless bearings seem to be much better than the previous and they made my engine alignment so much easier as there was a lot less play in the shaft when tying to find center. Thanks for putting this together, lots of guys are asking. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1AHD Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 Thanks for the write-up and photos.. I need to replace mine as well.. Let us know about that discounted for the Forum memebers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer808 Posted July 24, 2017 Report Share Posted July 24, 2017 Damn, I should have sent the OJ back & got the glide just for that split core. Â Nice write up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ship Faced Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Forum Suggestion: Create a locked sub-forum for "Maintenance or Modification Instructions" and put posts like this in it OR stick this and any other thorough write-up at the top of "tech discussion". Anytime somebody takes this much time to detail how to do something, it should be easy to find for the masses... especially given the poor "Here's the crap we used to build your boat" owners manual we get currently.  $.02 FWIW... Racer808 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperryd Posted July 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Forum Suggestion: Create a locked sub-forum for "Maintenance or Modification Instructions" and put posts like this in it OR stick this and any other thorough write-up at the top of "tech discussion". Anytime somebody takes this much time to detail how to do something, it should be easy to find for the masses... especially given the poor "Here's the crap we used to build your boat" owners manual we get currently. Â $.02 FWIW... Not redirecting anybody because I love this site, but that is what they are trying to do at WakeGarage.com. The idea is to build a completed project database that is sorted by category and easily searchable. A thread like this can be posted directly to the completed projects or a new project can be discussed in the forum while building it and then moved afterwards. The idea is to not lose these projects in the forum threads. WG is for all brands of wake boats. I frequent there and here more than any other sites. It's just taking time to get conversations going on a new site. They would kill to have a group as solid as we have here at MBOwners. http://www.wakegarage.com/ Paul Jones, Racer808, bloodiestcadaver and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1AHD Posted July 25, 2017 Report Share Posted July 25, 2017 Forum Suggestion: Create a locked sub-forum for "Maintenance or Modification Instructions" and put posts like this in it OR stick this and any other thorough write-up at the top of "tech discussion". Anytime somebody takes this much time to detail how to do something, it should be easy to find for the masses... especially given the poor "Here's the crap we used to build your boat" owners manual we get currently.  $.02 FWIW...  Agreed. I don't think we have enough detailed write-ups to warrant it's own section yet, but I'm happy to Sticky this. Ship Faced, oldsmobiledriver and Hyperryd 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperryd Posted July 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2017 I followed up with Tim at Glide Bearings on pricing. Â Regular cap GMSS Shaft Seal = $160. $220 for the pro kit with strut bearings. Split Cap GMSS Shaft Seal = $195 includes extra seal. $255 for Pro Kit. Â Tim is offering a 10% discount for MB Boat Owners forum members. PM me or tim@glide here on this site for the discount code. Ship Faced, oldsmobiledriver, M1AHD and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foo Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 One thing to keep in mind when replacing the PSS with a GlideSeal, is that the PSS doubles as a safety collar... if the shaft breaks at the coupling, the PSS will keep the shaft from sliding out of the boat... "but won't the prop and rudder do that?"  $ure.... maybe.... http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/5560-broken-drive-shaft/  If you have enough space, you can slide the PSS rotor on the shaft between the GlideSeal and the coupling; the rotor is well balanced and will make a great safety collar.  However, if your boat is like mine, there is NO WAY you can get anything in between the coupling and the GlideSeal because you need a few inches to install the coupling on the end of the shaft.    The solution?  Add a 1-1/8" split safety collar after everything else is in place; http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-30848-billet-aluminum-prop-shaft-collars.aspx http://www.cpperformance.com/p-30848-billet-aluminum-prop-shaft-collars.aspx http://www.d21ent.com/product-p/d21-066.htm  AZ_MB 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jhasting Posted October 16, 2017 Report Share Posted October 16, 2017 Been using the Glide Seal for 2 seasons now, best Seal on the market!! Did the install my self with not problems. Hyperryd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZ_MB Posted October 18, 2017 Report Share Posted October 18, 2017 One thing to keep in mind when replacing the PSS with a GlideSeal, is that the PSS doubles as a safety collar... if the shaft breaks at the coupling, the PSS will keep the shaft from sliding out of the boat... "but won't the prop and rudder do that?"  $ure.... maybe.... http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/5560-broken-drive-shaft/  If you have enough space, you can slide the PSS rotor on the shaft between the GlideSeal and the coupling; the rotor is well balanced and will make a great safety collar.  However, if your boat is like mine, there is NO WAY you can get anything in between the coupling and the GlideSeal because you need a few inches to install the coupling on the end of the shaft.    The solution?  Add a 1-1/8" split safety collar after everything else is in place; http://www.hardin-marine.com/p-30848-billet-aluminum-prop-shaft-collars.aspx http://www.cpperformance.com/p-30848-billet-aluminum-prop-shaft-collars.aspx http://www.d21ent.com/product-p/d21-066.htm  IMG_1478.JPG  Thanks for sharing this. I replaced mine with the OJ version of the seal so I need one of these. Kpinlac's post about his boat almost sinking in the other thread makes me nervous about mine. Racer808 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Ingwersen Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Yes I can relate, my shaft broke right inside hub on taper/keyway section bolted to the tranny on my 2014 F21 249 hrs, which was just 2 hrs on the water after a full service when I was just cruising at 20. Got a tow back to base, lucky I had the PSS with collar as this stopped my shaft pulling out.  I investigated and found the design fault on forum. My dealer replaced shaft (covered by MB) and upgraded engine mount bushes (Indmar accepted fault, and dealer was pursuing cost to replace from them) after I wrote a very detailed complaint about this design fault.  GOOD LUCK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
22mini20 Posted April 21, 2018 Report Share Posted April 21, 2018 If anyone that has never done a seal before..... on my 2011 tomcat the set screw on the pss seal has set screws under the outer set screws....I was unaware of that so if I can help someone with that knowledge there it is. In the middle of doing mine right now I bought it last season and putting it on before I put the boat on the hoist. It is not the split cap one but the regular one and I did the strut bearings as well.... those weren’t bad doing. Hyperryd and Jake (((O))) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crusty Posted June 15, 2018 Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 jhasting  where did you tap you water line into on your boat. I got the seal just have finished the install yet..  thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalbluewater Posted July 3, 2018 Report Share Posted July 3, 2018 Does anyone know why a brand new boat with less than 10 hours would be leaking from this shaft? Mine has been leaking even when not running. Water continuously enters the boat from somewhere in this shaft seal. Could one of the components just be loose? Not an easy access to this dam thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foo Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 jhasting  where did you tap you water line into on your boat. I got the seal just have finished the install yet..  thanks  I have the indmar motor. I connected the water line to the oil cooler, which is located immediately above the alternator.  There is a small bolt on the outside of the cooler, right at the bottom.  I replaced the bolt with a barbed fitting and connected to that... the nice thing about that location is that it is after the pump, so there is positive water pressure.    Jake (((O))) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foo Posted July 4, 2018 Report Share Posted July 4, 2018 Does anyone know why a brand new boat with less than 10 hours would be leaking from this shaft? Mine has been leaking even when not running. Water continuously enters the boat from somewhere in this shaft seal. Could one of the components just be loose? Not an easy access to this dam thing! Â What kind of seal is it? Â Do you have a photo? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sbentz101 Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 Does anyone know why a brand new boat with less than 10 hours would be leaking from this shaft? Mine has been leaking even when not running. Water continuously enters the boat from somewhere in this shaft seal. Could one of the components just be loose? Not an easy access to this dam thing! Any update on this? Have the same problem on my 16 sanger. Sanger sent me new seals but said if water was coming in from shaft area it would mean motor alignment was off. I live where there is no dealer for over 2k miles away so I'm on my own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsmobiledriver Posted March 7, 2019 Report Share Posted March 7, 2019 The seal will follow the shaft if out of alignment and not leak. Then the boat would vibrate under load and that would be another issue. Some seals are just junk. Â Â Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sbentz101 Posted March 8, 2019 Report Share Posted March 8, 2019 The seal will follow the shaft if out of alignment and not leak. Then the boat would vibrate under load and that would be another issue. Some seals are just junk.   Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk  Boat doesn't vibrate so seal must just be bad. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jjolin01 Posted September 13, 2019 Report Share Posted September 13, 2019 How are these shaft seals holding up? I need to replace my OEM seal after 220 hours Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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