Jump to content

thermostat location


Recommended Posts

On my 5.7 where all the hoses meet on the belt end, top of the intake it looks like two round housings with the hose attached. Top one is for the exhaust and the lower one has the thermostat for the motor.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I looked around on mine last night, just not seeing it.  I see the raw water, I see the belts, I am just not seeing this housing.  Anyone have a pic or better description where to find?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think I have the LS motor?  I will need to stick my head back there tonight.  Where can I find the serial numb on the engine?  That might help me figure out exactly what I have.

 

Seems odd to me my thermostat would be bad already?  But it doesn't make sense why my engine would suddenly start running around 120 temp unless it was the thermo??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't think I have the LS motor?  I will need to stick my head back there tonight.  Where can I find the serial numb on the engine?  That might help me figure out exactly what I have.

 

Seems odd to me my thermostat would be bad already?  But it doesn't make sense why my engine would suddenly start running around 120 temp unless it was the thermo??

 

Could also be the gauge or sending unit.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced my sending unit at 250 hours thinking it quit because my gauge was stuck at 160.  No change, put a thermostat in it, which was corroded and well over due at 250 hours, and everything started working as it should.  Mine is a raw water system though so that nasty lake water is hard on that post the valve opens on.  Changed it again this year at 500, would run wide open and surf fine at temp but when throttled out it would spike to 200 and beep a couple of times and cool back off quickly.  Now I know it just needs a thermostat every 200 hours......

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Throw it in a pot on the stove with a thermometer in the water and see at what temp it opens. Some may say that since its already out, why not just throw one in, and I would agree. However, depending on the results of the test you either know the t-stat was the culprit, or you need further diagnostics. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am so confused on this stupid issue.  Manual says I need the 958009 thermo, Bakes says that's incorrect and I need the 986115.  I need to just find the serial number.  Why on earth do they put the serial on the oil pan?  Like anyone can even get to the darn thing.  Really hate working on this boat.  But after demoing the new Axis, a few Malibus and a XT23 I REALLY don't think I'd like working on those boats.  Grrr.

 

Where else can I find the serial num?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looking at both those pics online it should be quite easy to identify once out. Why don't you just pull it out? If the illustration UNSTUCK posted is correct, that should be a simple task. Or just order both. 

I'm gonna yank it tnght & see what's up

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fuel atomization will be lessened, and you will be running it rich with the engine temp being colder. Fuel econ will suffer, if you care about that. Have you noticed any drivebility issues thus far? I would wait until you are at top engine temp before surfing and loading it up. Running richer will be a little tougher on the plugs and the cylinders from being washed with the extra fuel. But if you are running at 130, and the t-stat opens at 160 normally, I wouldn't be too concerned. If it were me, I would be running it. I would do a WOT pass at the end of your day or periodically throughout, depending on how long you will be out to clean everything out. The t-stat is stuck open and not allowing the regulated temp. That is far better than a stuck closed t-stat, if that were the case you'd be sitting at the dock. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I haven't been into mine yet, but on the LS motors it comes right off with the two front bolts that are diagonal from each other. I'm guessing its just the gasket or maybe some RTV that is causing things to stick.

 

And I'd just run over to your local parts house and grab a T-stat for an LS in whatever temp rating you want.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Man, I probably need to remove all the hoses then.  Took forever to get the top two off, was really hoping I wouldn't have to mess with them all.

Save yourself some grief next time and buy these to throw in your toolbox:

 

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-80380-Hose-Remover-Set/dp/B0079GPYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1507203067&sr=8-1&keywords=radiator+hose+pick

 

You can get the pick in between the hose and the pipe and work your way around freeing it up, after that you can spray some silicone or lubricant in there and run the pick around again so it gets on all sides. The hose will slip right off. You can also use a channel lock and try to twist the hose to free it, but if the hose has never been off before and really stuck on there it may tear. Just make sure to angle the pointed end of the pick toward the pipe. you don't want to puncture the hose. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...


×
×
  • Create New...