Engine Alignment, who's done it themselves? Question...

[M1AHD]

Replaced the motor mounts and shaft/coupler/shaft seal after I had the shaft crack.. Now I'm re-assembling and I am struggling to getting the shaft and v-drive aligned properly. 

 

I have a gap from the 12 to 7 o'clock position(.003 feeler slides freely).  

 

1-to-7 o'clock are tight (can not get a .003 feeler in)

 

With each adjustment on the motor mounts I seem to be chasing myself in a circle. Anyone have a suggestion on the order in which to make adjustments? Probably need to isolate the adjustments instead of keeping all 4 mounts in play at the same time.  Which direction I need to move the motor to align?

 

Thanks, 

[Bowkill1]

Engine up and to starboard if I'm translating you clocking correct. Leave the port trans mount alone. Maybe...

[Insuranceguy74]

How hard was it to do the engine mounts.. did you have to use a hoist to hold the engine up when you took out one engine mount at a time ?

 

What did it cost you for parts etc

 

 

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[Foo]

Sometimes the face of the coupler can be out by up to .002, so you need to turn the shaft and see if the gap follows or stays put.  If it follows, it's the coupler... if it stays put, it's the alignment. 

 

I usually clamp a feeler in on one side and then check the other side... side to side... top to bottom. 

 

You should adjust the pairs of mounts in unison.  i.e. make the same adjustment to both front mounts (don't turn just one of them)

 

You will need to look at where the shaft is in the log as well... you ideally want the shaft at the centre of the log. This will influence whether you are making changes to the engine mounts or the transmission mounts.   

 

As you have noticed.. it takes a LOT of monkeying around to get it right.

[Paul Jones]

On a 2016 B-52 23... How does one check the shaft alignment? Do you remove the bolts and check it loose? Do you need any special tools? I don't think I need an adjustment but I would rather be on the safe side and check it. I'm right at 100 hrs. My boat doesn't see the dealer. I do all my own maintenance.

[Foo]

On a 2016 B-52 23... How does one check the shaft alignment? Do you remove the bolts and check it loose? Do you need any special tools? I don't think I need an adjustment but I would rather be on the safe side and check it. I'm right at 100 hrs. My boat doesn't see the dealer. I do all my own maintenance.

 

This is probably the most comprehensive video on the matter:

 

If you're going to do it yourself, you should watch the whole thing.  It's for a direct drive, but the instructions are mostly the same with some obvious exceptions (e.g. removing the coupler from the shaft is significantly easier in our boats).

 

As I said in my earlier post, if you notice a gap that "follows", then it is probably the face of the coupler (up to .002) versus a bent shaft (unless you have some reason to suspect your shaft is bent... e.g. you recently had to repair a prop.)

 

What you are looking for is a gap that stays put when you rotate the prop shaft... that is misalignment. 

[Paulj]

Thanks I hadn't seen that video yet. I have not hit anything but would like to double check my alignment. Do you pull the four bolts out of the coupler and then spin the shaft? Also do you need to pull the coupler off of the shaft?

 

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[Mucker626]

Pull the 4 bolts.  You will need a feeler gauge.  You dont want any more than .003 gap any where on the mating surface of the prop shaft coupler and trans coupler.  Continue checking alignment all the way around the mating surface, rotating prop shaft and pulling it back up to the trans coupler making sure the 2 couplers are mating properly.  I keep putting a  bolt thru the holes to make sure its seated properly.  Ideally you want less than .003.  Checking alignment isn't so bad, its the adjustment that can be tricky.  Once you learn it, it's pretty easy! 

 

You don't have to hit anything for alignment to be off.  crappy motor mounts will do it! 

[Mbski]

Pull the 4 bolts. You will need a feeler gauge. You dont want any more than .003 gap any where on the mating surface of the prop shaft coupler and trans coupler. Continue checking alignment all the way around the mating surface, rotating prop shaft and pulling it back up to the trans coupler making sure the 2 couplers are mating properly. I keep putting a bolt thru the holes to make sure its seated properly. Ideally you want less than .003. Checking alignment isn't so bad, its the adjustment that can be tricky. Once you learn it, it's pretty easy!

 

You don't have to hit anything for alignment to be off. crappy motor mounts will do it!

 

 

Damm Mucker you the man

Am going to go check mine

[Foo]

Thanks I hadn't seen that video yet. I have not hit anything but would like to double check my alignment. Do you pull the four bolts out of the coupler and then spin the shaft? Also do you need to pull the coupler off of the shaft?

 

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As Mucker said, you don't have to hit something for the alignment to be out... however, if you have a gap that moves (follows) when you turn the prop shaft (after the bolts have been taken out, so the transmission output is stationary), then that can be caused by 1 of two different things... it can be an imperfection in the face of the coupler (the manufacturing spec on the elbert's shafts says that can be up to .002.. I have at least 0.0015 in mine)  OR it can be a bent shaft (as mentioned in the video.)    SO, if you have no reason to suspect a bent shaft, then it is probably the coupler...    The only reason that I brought this up, is that if you don't consider that there might be a gap that is following the coupler as you rotate it  IN ADDITION to a stationary gap that is present due to a misalignment, then you are in for a real mind bender....