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Winterizeing / Long Term Storage


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#1 Kalbluewater

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Posted 05 September 2018 - 02:11 PM

Does anyone have any lists of what is to be completed on the ‘18 B52 for winterization. I know there is the list for the Engine & drive components but, but I’m wondering If there are any other items involving the ballast tanks, lines pumps & p&p sacks etc. I’m used to doing my own winterizing, but, this being a new boat, I want to ensure everything is considered. Thanks in advance of any comments.

#2 snowplease

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Posted 05 September 2018 - 05:15 PM

I’ll take a list of engine and drive component if someone has something built!

#3 pwhicksjr

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Posted 08 November 2018 - 05:34 PM

I'm trying to follow the Indmar manual to get the water out and I can't find the blue plug or crossover hose to disconnect for #1.  I did fine on 2-5.

 

Anyone have some knowledge on that?  I'm going to keep searching too.

 

TY!



#4 Hondatech117

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Posted 09 November 2018 - 06:12 PM

I'm trying to follow the Indmar manual to get the water out and I can't find the blue plug or crossover hose to disconnect for #1. I did fine on 2-5.

Anyone have some knowledge on that? I'm going to keep searching too.

TY!


If you don’t gave a cross over tube, there are 14mm Allen head plugs in the manifolds, right above the stringers.
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#5 pwhicksjr

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 11:43 AM

I was able to get back out in the boat with a video camera and here is what I learned:

 

For reference:

2018 B52 Raptor 400

 

The Indmar manual has 5 points to drain:

1) Exhaust Manifold Cross over hose, which on some models is a hose that looks like it has a garden hose connection and that typically runs around the bow side of the v-drive engine and is accessible transmission under seat access.  This  NOT what the '18 B52 w/Raptor 400 has...at least ours MFG'd in May 2018.  That is definitely what my old F22 had from the 2014 MFG era.

 

FYI:  There is no drain plug per se on this engine's manifolds.

 

With the video camera, I traced the hoses coming out of the bottom of the manifolds towards the rear.  They came together and had a regular butterfly blue plug that was accessible from the Port side laying down and using my right arm to reach. 

 

A pic of the two types Indmar appears to be currently using is attached. Attached File  Manifold Drain Types.PNG   507.24KB   13 downloads

 

This plug got quite a bit of water to drain.

 

2) Transmission Drain / Anode

This one is easy to get to from the interior of the boat.  The blue plug comes right out but you are not done with that blue plug.  The Anode evidently is required to come out too.  1 1/16" socket fit after unclipping the bilge pump from the floor to create clearance.  Removing the Anode DID drain more water than just the blue plug.

 

3) Heat Exchanger Blue Plug

Accessed on the starboard side laying on my face and using my left hand.   You know you are getting the right one since it is at the bottom of the cylinder and not on a hose.  I missed this the first pass at completing this mission since I only expected 2 blue plugs at the back and it is surrounded by hoses.

 

4) Raw Water Inlet Tube

This one was also reached from the Starboard claustrophobic position laying with my feet jammed up the gunwale and on my side/face reaching with my left arm.  This one was extremely tight to the back wall of the boat with about an inch clearance so your fingers will get fiberglass burn without gloves.

 

5) Raw Water Pump Impeller - remove and replace

This one was accessed back on the Port side with the right arm working.  Since it was a new engine, the bolts had extra paint on them that had to be knocked off to get the wrench on to turn.  They are not too tight and in addition to accepting a wrench, they can take a slotted screwdriver.

 

I ended up with 4 blue plugs, 1 anode, and 4 bolts/impeller/cover.  I also put my 4 panels bolts/nuts/washers in the bag and those will stay off until March.  

 

This would have been way easier to pay the dealer, but for me the weather beat me to hauling the 6 hour round trip.  I may consider another Indmar dealer locally in the future.

 

If I'm going to do this over and over, it would be nicer to have easier to access for the rear drains.  Curiosity has me asking if 3 of these parts extending the location of these drains might be nice...or a similar concept extension.

Attached File  Drain Tube.PNG   70.93KB   11 downloads

 

I put tubs of DAMP RID in the boat a few months ago and AM VERY IMPRESSED with the water they have already trapped.

 


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#6 MWCasper

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 02:01 PM

Also need to unscrew/drain the raw water strainer before drawing in marine antifreeze with a rust inhibitor - there’s ~12oz of raw water sitting there.
  • pwhicksjr likes this

-Aaron

2017 MB B52 23WB

GBL or GBD...


#7 Tbag

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 02:42 PM

I was able to get back out in the boat with a video camera and here is what I learned:

For reference:
2018 B52 Raptor 400

The Indmar manual has 5 points to drain:
1) Exhaust Manifold Cross over hose, which on some models is a hose that looks like it has a garden hose connection and that typically runs around the bow side of the v-drive engine and is accessible transmission under seat access. This NOT what the '18 B52 w/Raptor 400 has...at least ours MFG'd in May 2018. That is definitely what my old F22 had from the 2014 MFG era.

FYI: There is no drain plug per se on this engine's manifolds.

With the video camera, I traced the hoses coming out of the bottom of the manifolds towards the rear. They came together and had a regular butterfly blue plug that was accessible from the Port side laying down and using my right arm to reach.

A pic of the two types Indmar appears to be currently using is attached. Manifold Drain Types.PNG

This plug got quite a bit of water to drain.

2) Transmission Drain / Anode
This one is easy to get to from the interior of the boat. The blue plug comes right out but you are not done with that blue plug. The Anode evidently is required to come out too. 1 1/16" socket fit after unclipping the bilge pump from the floor to create clearance. Removing the Anode DID drain more water than just the blue plug.

3) Heat Exchanger Blue Plug
Accessed on the starboard side laying on my face and using my left hand. You know you are getting the right one since it is at the bottom of the cylinder and not on a hose. I missed this the first pass at completing this mission since I only expected 2 blue plugs at the back and it is surrounded by hoses.

4) Raw Water Inlet Tube
This one was also reached from the Starboard claustrophobic position laying with my feet jammed up the gunwale and on my side/face reaching with my left arm. This one was extremely tight to the back wall of the boat with about an inch clearance so your fingers will get fiberglass burn without gloves.

5) Raw Water Pump Impeller - remove and replace
This one was accessed back on the Port side with the right arm working. Since it was a new engine, the bolts had extra paint on them that had to be knocked off to get the wrench on to turn. They are not too tight and in addition to accepting a wrench, they can take a slotted screwdriver.

I ended up with 4 blue plugs, 1 anode, and 4 bolts/impeller/cover. I also put my 4 panels bolts/nuts/washers in the bag and those will stay off until March.

This would have been way easier to pay the dealer, but for me the weather beat me to hauling the 6 hour round trip. I may consider another Indmar dealer locally in the future.

If I'm going to do this over and over, it would be nicer to have easier to access for the rear drains. Curiosity has me asking if 3 of these parts extending the location of these drains might be nice...or a similar concept extension.
Drain Tube.PNG

I put tubs of DAMP RID in the boat a few months ago and AM VERY IMPRESSED with the water they have already trapped.


Thanks for the write up - I have the same boat and searched all over for the darn exhaust manifold drains before finding the new drian point you referenced which i think does the same thing. It never gets below freezing in my garage but draining the the water was easy enough.

Does anyone actually remove the spark plugs and spray the cylinders with lube? I'm not sure it's a good idea when the boat is stored in a relatively climate controlled space.
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#8 pwhicksjr

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Posted 12 November 2018 - 08:30 PM

Corrosion is an enemy. In our plane which sits between use, we use CamGuard for aviation. They make a marine version. I've used Cam Guard for years in the plane.

It isn't by the book per Indmar that I can find; so research and make your decisions. It's not fogging but likely better than doing nothing. Basically, one bottle per oil change.






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