mxvet

If you do the RV anti-freeze, you still drain all the water first. Then replace the plugs and suck in the AF. If you just suck in the AF without draining, you run a very high risk of the AF being diluted too much by the water and not having the protection. 
Lots of people just drain.... I personally drain all the water, then re-install the plugs and then suck in 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze. Different reasons on why or why not to do it. It certainly is not needed if you drain everything correctly and make sure no pockets of water are left, I do it cause I believe it adds a layer of protection against potential corrosion during layup. You do need to make sure you use a RV AF that does not have alcohol in it tho.

Have you considered buying a lightly used boat? 2020 or 2019?

We tow with the tower down and tower-down-cover on exclusively every week on the 2019. No issues - we do use the triangle brackets that they ship the boats with though and the cover seems to keep tension (downward) on the tower. Previous boat (2016) I towed with speakers on and tower up, had 2 speaker mounts break. Removed speakers for the tow after that. 

unless you take a roller over the bow or over the rear, you should never need to run the bilge.  You definitely have something leaking.

The 575 at low elevation runs unbelievably good! Not only is it a tiny blip to get to surf speed, its super quiet. If you haven't been in one,,,,well...
 Is it needed - NO. Is it nice to have - HELL YA.
**Same logic applies for more than half the diesel truck owners out there.

The 575 at low elevation runs unbelievably good! Not only is it a tiny blip to get to surf speed, its super quiet. If you haven't been in one,,,,well...
 Is it needed - NO. Is it nice to have - HELL YA.
**Same logic applies for more than half the diesel truck owners out there.

The 575 at low elevation runs unbelievably good! Not only is it a tiny blip to get to surf speed, its super quiet. If you haven't been in one,,,,well...
 Is it needed - NO. Is it nice to have - HELL YA.
**Same logic applies for more than half the diesel truck owners out there.

The 575 at low elevation runs unbelievably good! Not only is it a tiny blip to get to surf speed, its super quiet. If you haven't been in one,,,,well...
 Is it needed - NO. Is it nice to have - HELL YA.
**Same logic applies for more than half the diesel truck owners out there.

I can see this to be the case if not getting to speed, but I'm on my 4th mb and the issue I've experienced is not related to throttle position. Its a sudden loss power as if the throttle was pulled all the way back.

The billet is actually more expensive for them to produce, so seems to make sense. 

dude is gased trying to stay with it. They say they were only in 8' of water. I wouldn't have posted that video.

I actually wired the lights controller to the docking lights switch, it works quite well. 
 

Now that I have gotten pretty good at riding out the 360s, I have started working on my airs...here are some pics of this weekend.  I still have a lot of work to do but this is my 3rd summer surfing and it's only 4 months long so...excuses 

We use lights from cyclops adventure sports suction cupped on the bow they work awesome and stow under the bow seats when not used. I found lights on the tower glare from the bow really badly and bugs swarm the tower/cabin of the boat when attached to tower.   

I hate to be negative here especially after some of you have already invested time and money into this project, but Noico is really not the best product for this application. Noico, Dynamat, Hushmat, and the like are Constrained Layer Dampers which are designed to deaden sound by damping vibrations of the surface it’s applied to. Think of it like a ringing bell: you can put your hand on the bell to stop it ringing and you stop the sound. This is what a CLD does. You’re actually stopping the sound at the source.
 
In our case, the single largest noise source is the engine/transmission. Since we can’t make the engine/transmission itself quieter, the only way to make the cabin quieter is to block the sound all together. Using the same analogy, our engine is the bell except now we can’t stop the bell from ringing. To block the sound, we need to encase the entire bell in a soundproof box. This is essentially what you guys are trying to do with Noico. It's the right idea, except it’s the wrong tool.
 
For the frequency we want to block, the most effective solution is mass, specifically limp decoupled mass. What you want to look for is Mass Loaded Vinyl (MLV), preferably with some type of foam decoupler. The more mass the better, between 1-2 lbs/sqft. Don’t overlook the decoupler either, this is very important in order to dissipate the sound energy. (This is the problem with CLDs: Not only are they not enough mass to be effective, they are not decoupled so sound is transmitted right through) If you want an example of such a product, check out Soundproof Cow Quiet Barrier Specialty Composite. I am in no way affiliated with them, just that it is the product I am planning to get for my own boat.
 
If sound deadening is something you are seriously looking into, I strongly encourage you to read through this thread from somebody much more knowledgeable than me and has done this to their own boat.
https://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/63020-sound-deadening-install-of-16-wakesetter-22-vlx/&

start as far back of the wake as possible. 3/4 thru the buzzer duration, pump to the front and hop over with momentum. 

soooo true... I hate tubes as well but sometimes you have to take one for the team.

I usually forget the pump

I've never heard that, but always best to document your oil changes and save receipts if you are paranoid about it. 

what do you put in them? The stock MB racks are plenty good enough for our wakeboards - all of my surfboards go under the bimini. 
 

It’s been so windy in Colorado this season, finally got a wind free evening this weekend. 
 

Thats good! - Has anyone actually experienced gel burn from a 15.5" prop?
I ran this weekend with the 3407 on my boat at 4800' - worked really well, in fact the RPMs came down 100-200 and the fuel efficiency was better by 2 GPH.  No burn or anything of notice. 15.5" makes a big difference. Our boats would be so much more efficient and powerful if MB could run 16 or 17" props. I don't understand why they haven't made the change yet.
 

I decided after 100 hrs to grease the rudder since another rudder topic came up here. Wow, what a difference that has made. I will now do this at every oil change or sooner. The boat overall is much smoother. 
Btw, I had to use an 18" extension to get to it on the port (left side). 

what do you put in them? The stock MB racks are plenty good enough for our wakeboards - all of my surfboards go under the bimini. 
 

It’s been so windy in Colorado this season, finally got a wind free evening this weekend.