Shawndoggy Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 of course assuming that it's true that the failure is caused by holding the switch a second too long.... doesn't that suggest it's the wrong part for the job? I mean sure you could wire in a timer and have it work that way, but it seems like a more robust part wouldn't hurt either. MBAZ25 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mucker626 Posted May 6, 2015 Report Share Posted May 6, 2015 of course assuming that it's true that the failure is caused by holding the switch a second too long.... doesn't that suggest it's the wrong part for the job? I mean sure you could wire in a timer and have it work that way, but it seems like a more robust part wouldn't hurt either.I agree 100%. Rite part to from the start MBAZ25 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnk Posted May 10, 2015 Report Share Posted May 10, 2015 One of my gates wouldn't open on my first time out this year. When I got back, I was able to open it manually, and then it started working electrically. I had not sprayed the gates before, even though I've had problems in the past (and replaced both gates a couple of years ago) partly because I was worried about using the wrong product and making things worse. I also never hold the open/close buttons for more than a couple of seconds, since MB has warned me about that (they said it would blow a fuse). I had seen on one of the DrainMaster documents someone posted here, about using Dow Corning Molykote 111 as the lubricant, so I ordered some (http://www.amazon.com/Dow-Corning-Molykote-Compound-150grams/dp/B002WDU1J8). And I called DrainMaster to ask how best to apply it, and what else they recommend to keep the gates from failing. DM told me I should take the valves out at the end of each season, keep them out all winter, and them lube them and put them back at the start of the new season. They said when lubing the gates, do both sides (but not "too much" - whatever that is), and the o-rings, and to get new o-rings if the existing ones are cracked (mine were fine). I don't know if I'm really gonna take them out at the end of each season - that's a pain in the butt (spent over an hour today taking them out, lubing them, and putting them back). But maybe... Also today I ran into the problem where the DM system thinks a gate is stuck open, because the white sensor came detached from the gate. I superglued it back on. So just something to be aware of if one day the gate-open light is stuck on and you can't operate it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgigs7 Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 This stinks. I'm having the same problem on the 2015. The gate works fine on the trailer. I've sprayed it with silicone spray. Once I get it in the water it sticks. It's like the pressure of the water on it freezes the gate. I have to get in the water and tap on it with the back of a screwdriver to get it to go up. Does it sound like a bad motor or just a sticky gate? How can I get tot the back of it to lube it better? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsmobiledriver Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Sticky gate, pull the four bolts slide it out and use some poly grease on the rubbers and reinstall, very lightly snug the bolts like you should think they will leak cause they're not tight Mgigs7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mgigs7 Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 Sticky gate, pull the four bolts slide it out and use some poly grease on the rubbers and reinstall, very lightly snug the bolts like you should think they will leak cause they're not tightThanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk oldsmobiledriver 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pickle Posted May 19, 2015 Report Share Posted May 19, 2015 I had a bad gate in the first season, and I pulled it out to find quite a bit of debris from the build process. Which possibly caused stress to the motor, from increased open/close friction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somepeteguy Posted May 20, 2015 Report Share Posted May 20, 2015 Sticky gate, pull the four bolts slide it out and use some poly grease on the rubbers and reinstall, very lightly snug the bolts like you should think they will leak cause they're not tight The biggest hassle for me is the intake coverings. The adhesion from the factory silicone makes them a bear to get off. Shawndoggy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich74 Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 I forgot to lube mine the last few outings. I am able to open and close them manually. When the boat is out of the water and i have someone at the rear of the boat wactching the gate under the swim step, i hit the switch they can hear clicking. I am thinking the motor is trying to work but some sort of debris got in the gate.. what do you guys think? Has anyone one heard the "clicking" before Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clovenburg Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 Sometimes the gears inside get stripped i've had a couple do that Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted May 27, 2015 Report Share Posted May 27, 2015 I forgot to lube mine the last few outings. I am able to open and close them manually. When the boat is out of the water and i have someone at the rear of the boat wactching the gate under the swim step, i hit the switch they can hear clicking. I am thinking the motor is trying to work but some sort of debris got in the gate.. what do you guys think? Has anyone one heard the "clicking" before Rich It's toast. Time to replace. pickle and Mucker626 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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