12b52 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 2018 tomcat. Live in northern Utah. Boat is stored indoors but not insulated. I know some people and dealers suck antifreeze into the motor and leave it in there rather than just pulling the motor drain plugs. Inmar manual states to do just the draining. No mention of antifreeze. Which do you guys do? And to those that do suck antifreeze into motor. How do you do so? Regular RV type antifreeze? When doing the ballast bags...do you just run the pumps for a few seconds to clear water out of pump then dump some antifreeze down overflow holes? —thanks for always helping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Infinitysurf Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 If you do the RV anti-freeze, you still drain all the water first. Then replace the plugs and suck in the AF. If you just suck in the AF without draining, you run a very high risk of the AF being diluted too much by the water and not having the protection. Lots of people just drain.... I personally drain all the water, then re-install the plugs and then suck in 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze. Different reasons on why or why not to do it. It certainly is not needed if you drain everything correctly and make sure no pockets of water are left, I do it cause I believe it adds a layer of protection against potential corrosion during layup. You do need to make sure you use a RV AF that does not have alcohol in it tho. mxvet 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12b52 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Ok check. Ill verify no alcohol in the pink stuff. How do you suck it into motor? From the bottom of hull intake with a fake lake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowplease Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 We cut the bottom off a gallon and use it as a funnel right into the raw water intake (engine side of strainer). Pour as many gallons until it comes out exhaust pink. We still use heated winter storage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxvet Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 4 hours ago, Infinitysurf said: If you do the RV anti-freeze, you still drain all the water first. Then replace the plugs and suck in the AF. If you just suck in the AF without draining, you run a very high risk of the AF being diluted too much by the water and not having the protection. Lots of people just drain.... I personally drain all the water, then re-install the plugs and then suck in 5 gallons of RV anti-freeze. Different reasons on why or why not to do it. It certainly is not needed if you drain everything correctly and make sure no pockets of water are left, I do it cause I believe it adds a layer of protection against potential corrosion during layup. You do need to make sure you use a RV AF that does not have alcohol in it tho. same here,,, also keeps the impeller from drying out. They will actually last many seasons. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12b52 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Sounds awesome. But sorry for being so stupid. Am i doing this with motor running? If someone has a video of this process or knows of something on youtube i would love to watch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sbentz101 Posted September 11, 2020 Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 Yes, motor needs to run in order to pull in antifreeze. Whether using fake a lake or disconnecting main water hose in engine bay. Its helpful to have 2 people so one can start it while other is feeding it antifreeze because you don't want engine to run without fluids going through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12b52 Posted September 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2020 I totally understand now. Disconnect intake hose after the strainer filter. Then suck antifreeze in from that point. Got it. Thanks again all. Sbentz101 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted September 12, 2020 Report Share Posted September 12, 2020 Is a 2018 not using the Indmar Raptor? If so, its a partially closed cooling engine isnt it, so you would not be draining the engine, just the exhaust and raw water intake portion. With that said, its best to drain all the water first. Marine/RV A/F is designed for use at 100%. Diluting into a system full of water, will raise its freeze point. This usually does not take long, especially the 2nd season. It also does not require any more A/F then the system hold. No need to keep pumping it in until you see a color change. Even then, of you do a proper drain, A/F is not needed. Shops like to use a tattle tail. If someone comes back in the spring and claims a cracked block, and the dealer opens the plugs and finds lake water coming out, the jigs up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12b52 Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Thats a really good tattle tail. Funny. So do you guys pull the hose clamp off the side that is past the strainer and thats where you shove a funnel? (Just verifying that its ok to disconnect hose each season and it doesn’t become brittle or an issue). I saw inmar makes the strainer pro that has a hose hook up already built into the strainer. Kinda slick. Anyone use one of those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
12b52 Posted September 14, 2020 Author Report Share Posted September 14, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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