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JL speaker upgrades


oboyskibum

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1 hour ago, oboyskibum said:

@bloodiestcadaverbeing in Utah(dry climate) its not as critical to get a marine sub, if you look for a sub with a cone and surround that won't have issues with a little moister. A lot of high end systems in boats don't use marine subs because they don't perform as well compared to higher end car subs.

@Wylietunes can give you a lot more details on how watts impact sounds etc....

Don't be fooled into thinking watts=sounds output and quality. Think of it like putting a 700hp motor in for pinto wagon. It has power but its junk. A mini cooper with a 300hp motor will have better overall performance with less horsepower, a Porsche 911 with 400 HP will perform even better, and dodge hellcat with 717 HP is another better performer. All have different costs but all have different performance in certain areas.

This is the wetsounds you probably want https://www.wetsounds.com/product/REVO-12-XXX-V4-B

sweet! thanks! Yea I would be cool with this or that huge JL sub.  Still bummed about the big 12. I don't like the idea of mis matched stereo, but what do I do at this point. I don't want them to replace the exile with JL. I still like the exile look and never had an issue with the sound 

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7 hours ago, bloodiestcadaver said:

My dealer offered me a wetsounds sub as well, What would be comparable?

In terms of power handling class, the Wet Sounds Revo-12XXX would be the comparable Wet Sounds woofer, not the Revo-12HP

In terms of built for the marine environment, all the wet sounds woofers are built from the ground up as a true marine woofer. Synthetic cone, rubber surround, sealed magnet, synthetic spider, composite basket, etc.

Now, not all "car" woofers are bad to use in boats though. However, I suggest to steer clear of those that use a paper based cone. Sometimes words like cellulose, hybrid or laminated are used. These indicate a paper based cone.  

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1 hour ago, mytkwik said:

I have the 4 tower upgrade but had a local shop add another 600/1 JL amp to power two more 10s. Don't have the specifics on the factory installed amps with me but here are some pictures.

Welcome!  More pics of the whole boat please. 😁

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2 hours ago, mytkwik said:

I have the 4 tower upgrade but had a local shop add another 600/1 JL amp to power two more 10s. Don't have the specifics on the factory installed amps with me but here are some pictures.

IMG_4493.jpg

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It’s too late for me to change my sub on my build, so doing something like this is probably in my future. I’ll probable head to the shop @oboyskibumrecommended in Utah. 

Do you mind if I ask what the 2 subs, amp, and install set you back (approximately)? I may just do one more 10 inch sub. PM me if you aren’t comfortable posting cost.

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11 hours ago, Guppydriver said:

It’s too late for me to change my sub on my build, so doing something like this is probably in my future. I’ll probable head to the shop @oboyskibumrecommended in Utah. 

Do you mind if I ask what the 2 subs, amp, and install set you back (approximately)? I may just do one more 10 inch sub. PM me if you aren’t comfortable posting cost.

I private messages you with more info but I have the JL Audio M600/1 and 2 JL Audio M6-10IB-S-GwGw-4

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18 hours ago, oboyskibum said:

Don't be fooled into thinking watts=sounds output and quality.

There is some truth to this, especially with full range speakers. Not enough wattage for the job, and the user tends to crank the volume wide open, trying to get the desired output of the driver. The higher the volume level (not dB's, but dial level) the more the signal quality drops off. 

The 4 main contributors to output, is driver surface area, enclosure type, excursion and wattage. IMO, this order is also the most efficient to the least efficient. Larger a woofer and a ported or passive radiator enclosure v's sealed all require ZERO more wattage to gain more output. Excursion can be equated to more surface area. Wattage? Well, wattage = more amperage consumption. You need to nearly double the wattage to a driver to get a noticeable difference in volume or output. So increasing wattage least efficient means to increase output. 

On the flip side, its always ideal to match the woofer's rated wattage handling with your woofer's output, heres why. The woofer's wattage rating has nothing to do with its output. A 2000W rms rated 12" woofer in a sealed enclosure will not have any more output then a 200W rms rated 12" woofer in the same sealed enclosure powered by the same 200W rms amplifier. So if you are in a scenario where you already have an amp, choose a woofer that is a good pairing to the amp's RMS at its safe working impedance and not based on the woofer's RMS/PEAK rating. 

Where we get that extra output from that high RMS/PEAK rated woofer, is when we feed it with an amp thats going to meet or exceed that RMS. Preferably, exceed the rated RMS. Headroom, or untapped wattage, means the amp runs comfortably, while the woofer performs to its potential. Example; Woofer has a 1000/2000 RMS/PEAK rating, shoot for an amp that in the 1500W rms at the woofer's impedance range. This is a great match.   

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On 4/2/2021 at 12:55 PM, Wylietunes said:

There is some truth to this, especially with full range speakers. Not enough wattage for the job, and the user tends to crank the volume wide open, trying to get the desired output of the driver. The higher the volume level (not dB's, but dial level) the more the signal quality drops off. 

The 4 main contributors to output, is driver surface area, enclosure type, excursion and wattage. IMO, this order is also the most efficient to the least efficient. Larger a woofer and a ported or passive radiator enclosure v's sealed all require ZERO more wattage to gain more output. Excursion can be equated to more surface area. Wattage? Well, wattage = more amperage consumption. You need to nearly double the wattage to a driver to get a noticeable difference in volume or output. So increasing wattage least efficient means to increase output. 

On the flip side, its always ideal to match the woofer's rated wattage handling with your woofer's output, heres why. The woofer's wattage rating has nothing to do with its output. A 2000W rms rated 12" woofer in a sealed enclosure will not have any more output then a 200W rms rated 12" woofer in the same sealed enclosure powered by the same 200W rms amplifier. So if you are in a scenario where you already have an amp, choose a woofer that is a good pairing to the amp's RMS at its safe working impedance and not based on the woofer's RMS/PEAK rating. 

Where we get that extra output from that high RMS/PEAK rated woofer, is when we feed it with an amp thats going to meet or exceed that RMS. Preferably, exceed the rated RMS. Headroom, or untapped wattage, means the amp runs comfortably, while the woofer performs to its potential. Example; Woofer has a 1000/2000 RMS/PEAK rating, shoot for an amp that in the 1500W rms at the woofer's impedance range. This is a great match.   

Thank you for the detailed explanation!

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  • 3 weeks later...

Well I’m finally getting back to everybody, I had the stereo in the boat tuned and they said all of the crossover settings were way off, it does indeed sound much better now, i’m still not jumping for joy over the stereo but it works..

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2 hours ago, Moto1 said:

Well I’m finally getting back to everybody, I had the stereo in the boat tuned and they said all of the crossover settings were way off, it does indeed sound much better now, i’m still not jumping for joy over the stereo but it works..

Can you share your current settings?

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43 minutes ago, Moto1 said:

Again, 4 tower speakers, 4 in main cabin, 2 at dashboard,2 in bow.  1.   12” sub Behind driver seat. 

C2399298-33DE-460C-A4E9-D0D753F27752.jpeg

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If you are underwhelmed with the 12” sub, I’m sure the standard 10” will be even less flattering. I can’t afford a ridiculous sound system, but I can see myself wanting to add a bit more bass. 

What do you think the most effective way to do this is without breaking the bank? Adding another 10” inch subwoofer? What would you guys do? Can 2 grand do anything or will I need a lot more to even notice a difference? I can’t install myself, si I would have to pay for that as well. 

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13 hours ago, Guppydriver said:

If you are underwhelmed with the 12” sub, I’m sure the standard 10” will be even less flattering. I can’t afford a ridiculous sound system, but I can see myself wanting to add a bit more bass. 

What do you think the most effective way to do this is without breaking the bank? Adding another 10” inch subwoofer? What would you guys do? Can 2 grand do anything or will I need a lot more to even notice a difference? I can’t install myself, si I would have to pay for that as well. 

Since mine was supposed to get the BIG12 and did not come with it. I have to resort to adding another sub. while I think a 100k boat should have a matching set up. I have to bend the knee if I want the "bass/ stereo" I paid for. After talking to the boat shacks' stereo guy, He made me feel alot better about the direction we are going. They are going to add another 12 inch sub ahead of the driver helm, add another amp. The factory sub will still be ran by the 5 channel, then another amp for the new sub. He claims he will balance out the subs and It will sound amazing. I should have this done by june so I can report back with my thoughts.  It will be put to the test for my first trip to Havasu, with no dam kids lol. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 3/30/2021 at 2:21 PM, oboyskibum said:

Are those the 8.8's or the 7.7's?

Looks like my boat came with the bigger Sub as well. I didn't order it, but maybe it's for the best if it saves me having to invest in aftermarket. 

Looks like I have the same amps as @Moto1. I have no idea what that is, but there are three instead of two and the bottom sub amp looks pretty big. Any idea what model of amps these are? The cabin/bow speakers are definitely the 7.7's, I took a tape and measured them.

IMG_1233 - Copy.jpg

IMG_1236.jpg

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3 hours ago, oboyskibum said:

TBS said 12" sub upgrade comes with the (1) M1000/1v2 amp. Well hopefully I get a nice surprise like that and my boat comes in with powder coated blue tabs and racks even though I didn't order it that way. I did order the 12" sub and (6) tower speakers.

I was hoping to see the same 6 channel amp that the standard 10" sub comes with, but with the aft cabin speakers on their own channel instead of the bridged sub.....looks like they gave me the 4 channel instead to power the 8 cabin speakers (4 cabin, 2 bow, 2 dash).  

Six tower speakers weren't even an option when I ordered....

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