SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Next I needed to see what the highest setup was gong to be. Looks like the handle will be the highest part. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Still not sure exactly what setup I will go with. Time to start seeing how things will fit inside the boat. I initially thought I would try and mount the intakes behind the engine, but it really doesn't look like that will be a good place. So, I believe I will be putting it on the starboard side between the engine and the v-drive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 As you can see, the only real obstacle will be the fuel hose. Since it is just zip tied to the other hoses, I can easily move it so it doesn't sit there and rub on the handle. Next, I needed to verify I have the height clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Looks like I have plenty of clearance. Next while I was pulling everything apart, I noticed how much of a gap was around the brass fitting compared to how tight the vent/drain fittings were in the holes I drilled. I could stuff the brass fitting in the same hole as the drain/vent, but it was really tight. I have plenty of bezel on the brass fitting, so I will just go with the larger diameter hole for the brass. Gives me a little play too, if I need it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Done for the day. Still need to make the drill bit template. That was pretty easy before, so I am not too worried about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
somepeteguy Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Some questions: How many pumps are you going to run through those intakes? Why not drain through the bottom of the boat vs. drilling holes in the side of the hull and running more hose? You bought reversible pumps after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenmann Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 An alternative to using a step drill for enlarging the existing holes is to use a smaller hole saw to cut plugs from scrap wood that match the internal diameter of the existing hole, then slip the plugs on the pilot drill of the larger hole saw for the new mushroom fittings. This creates an oversize pilot for the larger hole saw keeping it centered in the smaller hole as it opens up the hole to accept the new fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Three pumps. I wanted to run it this way. I could have done it differently, but I have been thinking about and planning this for awhile. I could have gone with just drilling for new vents, but it would have left me with one tiny vent for the tanks and a larger one for the new vent. I also wanted to see when I was full on a bag and when I was empty on a bag. I think I could have worked something out with one new port and check valves, but then I wouldn't have known just by looking if the bag was filling or emptying (yes, I could look at the switches). The way I am doing it, the middle hole will be the hard tanks vent and bilge pumps drain, the forward ports will be the auto fill port, and the rear ports will be the auto drain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 An alternative to using a step drill for enlarging the existing holes is to use a smaller hole saw to cut plugs from scrap wood that match the internal diameter of the existing hole' date=' then slip the plugs on the pilot drill of the larger hole saw for the new mushroom fittings. This creates an oversize pilot for the larger hole saw keeping it centered in the smaller hole as it opens up the hole to accept the new fittings.[/quote'] If I understand what your saying, that would work if the existing hole and the new hole were centered. In my case, I am pretty sure that the existing hole top will have to become the new larger holes top - off center. If I am not understand, please post a picture or diagram as I would like to do it easier if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lenmann Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Correct. I didn't realize you were moving the center of the hole. Your best bet may be to use an abrasive drum in a air die ringer or drill motor to enlarge and shift the new holes. Hole saws really don't like not having some form of pilot to keep them centered. Another alternative would be to epoxy the existing hole closed using jb weld or the two part putty stuff and then drill a new pilot hole (offset as needed) for the larger hole saw. I appreciate the detailed post by the way, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I may have to sand it out in the end. I have been thinking that I may be able to drill the two side holes - after aligning to the middle hole. Then use two of the ports to hold one of my templates - the one for the hole saw part, larger holes. That way the template will be the guide for the hole bit. If I could just get the gel coat scored that way, I would be happy. I don't want to induce a crack in the gel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GC09 Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 If you run the drill in reverse until you go through the gel you will not crack it. Beastmaster 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 That is correct. I was only worried if I have to round out the existing holes with a sanding bit or even worse if I have to hold the hole drill bit and try to hit the right spot. That would be absolute worst case and in not on the radar so far. I think I have a good plan so far. Just taking it nice and slow. I am going to drill a small hole on a piece of wood and see if my plan will work. That way I can make a few test runs first. Thanks for looking out with the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxvet Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I drilled the least amount of holes when I plumbed in the ballast system in our old boat (2 bags & 2 pumps). I used a tee to splice into the hard ballast vent line with directional check valves utilizing the same stock vent. I also used the reversible pumps to drain through the same brass intake valve (as Pete mentioned). No issues with fill or drain and less hose/holes in the boat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 I thought about that too. I really just decided this was the road I wanted to go down. I think in the end it will work functionally and esthetically for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
M1AHD Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Pluming in a ballast system is way more costly than I had thought. I didn't realize it would be nearly $700 in parts, when I already own the ballast bags! (and only a 2 bag setup at that) Wow. Maybe I'll just have to continue throwing a pump over the side a while longer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mxvet Posted March 11, 2013 Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Pluming in a ballast system is way more costly than I had thought. I didn't realize it would be nearly $700 in parts' date=' when I already own the ballast bags! (and only a 2 bag setup at that) Wow. Maybe I'll just have to continue throwing a pump over the side a while longer [/quote'] Ya not very cheap. You have to weigh the convenience vs cost. My wife struggled with the cost initially, but once it was done, we were BOTH very happy with the ease of use and cost of convenience. Over filling bags, water all over the place, and stringing pumps all over, were a thing of the past. Press a button & enjoy. I plan to plumb our new boat once the ice thaws and have a chance to figure out which bags/setup works best for us. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Pluming in a ballast system is way more costly than I had thought. I didn't realize it would be nearly $700 in parts' date=' when I already own the ballast bags! (and only a 2 bag setup at that) Wow. Maybe I'll just have to continue throwing a pump over the side a while longer [/quote'] I was surprised a little as well. Fittings costs were higher than I thought they would be. I started looking at wakemakers for everything, but then started looking at other places. I really couldn't find all of the parts I needed at a better cost. Maybe on a few parts here and there, but not enough to justify buying them elsewhere. I ended up buying everything from them. I too had the bags and was using two tsunami pumps to fill two bags at once. It gets old quickly since my wife and I ride on opposite sides. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 11, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2013 Pluming in a ballast system is way more costly than I had thought. I didn't realize it would be nearly $700 in parts' date=' when I already own the ballast bags! (and only a 2 bag setup at that) Wow. Maybe I'll just have to continue throwing a pump over the side a while longer [/quote'] Ya not very cheap. You have to weigh the convenience vs cost. My wife struggled with the cost initially, but once it was done, we were BOTH very happy with the ease of use and cost of convenience. Over filling bags, water all over the place, and stringing pumps all over, were a thing of the past. Press a button & enjoy. X2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rooseveltkid Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I ordered my ballast system today from wakemakers also your info and pictures are much appreciated. Im glad I get to see all your planning so its all laid out for me. I actually went with the same system Thesqueakywheel has with the four fill pumps and the x link. I saw a hole in the ice on one of our lakes and decided i better get going so i could be done by the time the boat dock thawed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I am trying. It sucks stopping to take a picture. I use my iPhone to play the stereo in the garage. I need to remember to keep the gopro close by. I couldn't find a step by step as detailed as I wanted, so I hope it helps someone. If anyone sees something not quite right or wants more detail, just let me know. This sounds stupid, but I wish this weekend was going to be bad weather. I have a few friends coming out from Texas next weekend, so that is two weeks that I won't get this done. On the other hand I am getting on the lake both weekends so that will be good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Oh, one other thing. I may try and make my system work like the x-link. I only have three ports on my bags - 1100lbs. Normally the one port on the bottom is the drain/fill and one of the top ports is the vent. I am thinking I could flip the bags upside down and then use the second port for another pump - like the x-link. I haven't seen a system like that, so I don't know how the quick connect lock will react. I am worried that they would either get crushed or pop off, so I will test it out before I buy another pump. Anyone have any input on how those fittings would hold up if the bags were upside down? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 why would you need to flip the bags? There's no reason you can't drain and fill from a port on top of the bag for the xlink with impeller pumps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted March 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 I heard they would have good suction, you think they are reliable at priming from the top of the bags like that? That extra pump would be about five feet away and 2-3 feet below the top of the bag. That would simplify things a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pilot Posted March 12, 2013 Report Share Posted March 12, 2013 Damn, gutsy call on drilling holes in a perfectly good boat . A couple beginner questions if you don't mind. 1) I'm assuming you're doing all this for surfing and not foiling, correct assumption? 2) This is a lot of effort and money when lead is a lot cheaper and easier. Can I assume nobody uses lead since it could actually sink your boat, is hard on the trailer, and hurts gas mileage when you're not surfing? 3) MB has so much ballast to begin with, is just fine tuning the wake, or is it unsurfable in stock condition? I've owned my boat since October but yet to actually use it, damn thing taunts me every day parked next to my truck in the garage . Getting close now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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