Shawndoggy Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 the more I think about this, the more I think Pete is right, at least for my setup (drain and fill through the bottom of the boat, vent out the side). My concern is/was that water passing out the vent will inadvertently fill the factory tank through the vent hose because the vent hose from the factory tank won't have a check valve on it. While theoretically possible, I don't think it would really matter now for a couple of reasons. First, I'd presumably already have that factory ballast tank full, so adding more water would be a nonissue. Second, the amount of water passing out the vent (and potentially draining back into the tank) should be minimal because I'd be turning the pump off as soon as water comes out the vent hole anyway. So a couple gallons at most, worst case scenario. I think I am going to Y off of the existing vents instead of drilling more holes. I've completed my ballast setup on the new boat and used it for a few weeks now. I ended up going back and adding check valves for both vent lines off the bags (as I had on the previous boat). When the bags have about 1-2" of water left, the pumps will suck air. You have to pick the bag up and push the water to the outlet. With the check valves on the vent lines, the pumps will completely empty the bags. Yep this is exactly what I did, y-ing into the existing vents and putting check valves on the bag vent lines. Works great. Bags get pancake flat and only seem to retain a cup or so of water. colorado widebody 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted June 10, 2013 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 I really like mine now that it is complete - except that I think I already have a bad impeller on my front bag pump. It was making a sound like something was getting stuck and wouldn't pump any water. I will dig into it in the next couple of days - may need to switch to the green impellers sooner than I thought. I only have 5-6 fills/drains on that pump. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demo9asx Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 Very nice work fellas. Maybe next season project for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted June 10, 2013 Report Share Posted June 10, 2013 im making the drawings for a very simple version where all my bags will be piped...but to a portable ballast pump in one location rather than reversibles.... Very nice though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalward Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I tee'd off the factory vents with the 09 TWb and it worked fine. For a 700# bag it took roughly about 10 mins fill/drain.. We were never waiting on it though as we were always preparing to do something. I had a check valve in between bag vent and tee. Probably not necessary though. As soon as bag filled, excess water went out vent. Pretty sure we already had hard tank full though. With a dedicated 1" thru-hole vent, I wouldn't expect to see much of a decrease in fill time. mxvet, I'm a new owner and trying to find a simpler way to drain/fill my bags. It sounds like your way is simplest. Would you be willing to review my diagram and tell me if I've basically got it right (less your check valve)? I assume I'd need to do this for each bag? Thanks. Shawndoggy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I tee'd off the factory vents with the 09 TWb and it worked fine. For a 700# bag it took roughly about 10 mins fill/drain.. We were never waiting on it though as we were always preparing to do something. I had a check valve in between bag vent and tee. Probably not necessary though. As soon as bag filled, excess water went out vent. Pretty sure we already had hard tank full though. With a dedicated 1" thru-hole vent, I wouldn't expect to see much of a decrease in fill time. mxvet, I'm a new owner and trying to find a simpler way to drain/fill my bags. It sounds like your way is simplest. Would you be willing to review my diagram and tell me if I've basically got it right (less your check valve)? I assume I'd need to do this for each bag? Thanks. You have it right. Are you suggesting that you'd put your through hull for the bags in the transom? I'm not a fan of that... One other point based on personal experience. If venting with the factory tank vents, which use 3/4" hose (at least on my 2011), it is possible to pumps re water in through the 1" fill line than you can vent though the 3/4" vent. Which can have in intended consequences, eventually (in my case, blowing the vent fitting out of the bag). colorado widebody 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Has anyone tried to Use the existing Factory Ballast fill lines and "teed" them into bags and vented the bags with a check? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 it's a 3" hole. that's going to be an expensive tee. and there isn't much extra room down there and supposing you can get a tee between the through hull and the gate valve where are you going to run the hose? back up through the access panel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightMax Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Has anyone tried to Use the existing Factory Ballast fill lines and "teed" them into bags and vented the bags with a check? Huh? Are you suggesting gravity filling the bags? wont work unless you fill up the rest of the boat along with them.. steve142 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 I am making that suggestion Midnight! I imagine it would fill quite easily..but would the soft bags empty.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 it's a 3" hole. that's going to be an expensive tee. and there isn't much extra room down there and supposing you can get a tee between the through hull and the gate valve where are you going to run the hose? back up through the access panel? I would probably tap a 1" threaded fitting after the valve. Looks like there is enough room. I had to Pull one of the valves out early season for replacement. I could either put a small saddle or tap into the pipe directly.. I was curious if anyone had tried it yet... Again..emptying is my main concern... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 it won't do jack without a pump on it. Think about it. The water will only rise to the water line. It's the same reason you can change your impeller on the water without sinking your boat. colorado widebody 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MidnightMax Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 exactly^^^^ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 shoot..duhhh...lol.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalward Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 You have it right. Are you suggesting that you'd put your through hull for the bags in the transom? I'm not a fan of that... One other point based on personal experience. If venting with the factory tank vents, which use 3/4" hose (at least on my 2011), it is possible to pumps re water in through the 1" fill line than you can vent though the 3/4" vent. Which can have in intended consequences, eventually (in my case, blowing the vent fitting out of the bag). Thanks Shawndoggy, I wasn't actually suggesting a drain/fill port in the transom as much as I was guessing that's where others normally put it. If I did this for a bag in the locker, I assume the pump would be in rear compartment, and you'd suggest the new drain/fill port be in the bottom of the boat? Is there a preferred location for this port? Also, I'd like to better understand your comment. Are you saying that when water is pumped in through a 1" line, and the bag only has a 3/4" vent, pressure can build up in the bag to a point where something has to give...namely in your case, the vent fitting? If so, it sounds like the simplest solution is to use a 3/4" fill line and accept the slower fill time? Is that what you would suggest? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted August 7, 2013 Report Share Posted August 7, 2013 Thanks Shawndoggy, I wasn't actually suggesting a drain/fill port in the transom as much as I was guessing that's where others normally put it. If I did this for a bag in the locker, I assume the pump would be in rear compartment, and you'd suggest the new drain/fill port be in the bottom of the boat? Is there a preferred location for this port? Also, I'd like to better understand your comment. Are you saying that when water is pumped in through a 1" line, and the bag only has a 3/4" vent, pressure can build up in the bag to a point where something has to give...namely in your case, the vent fitting? If so, it sounds like the simplest solution is to use a 3/4" fill line and accept the slower fill time? Is that what you would suggest? Thanks. Or just pay attention (or rather gently remind your spouse to pay attention), and when you hear the bag venting, turn off the pump. It won't blow immediately, but leave it on for 7 or 8 minutes too long.... As for the through hulls, scroll up in this thread to see where sky ski put his (between tranny and stringer in the bilge). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeko Posted August 8, 2013 Report Share Posted August 8, 2013 I have a solution for you SD. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HOBBS-PRESSURE-SWITCH-4-PSI-NORMALLY-OPEN-/160818404785 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecmark-Spa-Heater-Pressure-Switch-3903-DF-1Amp-SPST-1-5PSI-/251260131319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a804557f7 Just wire the NC switch contact in line with the Pump, If the pressure is high it will automatically cut power to the pump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalward Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I have a solution for you SD. http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-HOBBS-PRESSURE-SWITCH-4-PSI-NORMALLY-OPEN-/160818404785 or http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tecmark-Spa-Heater-Pressure-Switch-3903-DF-1Amp-SPST-1-5PSI-/251260131319?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a804557f7 Just wire the NC switch contact in line with the Pump, If the pressure is high it will automatically cut power to the pump... That's pretty trick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mentalward Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 Funny, now that I look for it there are more than I thought. I don't even remember seeing these last two before... media/kunena/attachments/25983/jabsco-reversible-ballast-system-drain-above-share-thru-hull.jpg media/kunena/attachments/25983/george-weis-malibu-enzo-system-600x523.jpg SkySki, it's killing me. You have posted numerous images that I really want to see, but they won't open on my machine. I click on the image, a window pops up, the page grays out, but no image is ever displayed. I'd love to see your schematics and photos of where you placed your fill ports. Is there any chance that you'd be willing to post them somewhere else where they can be more easily opened? Am I the only one who can't open them? Thanks for detailing your experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rickB52 Posted August 9, 2013 Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 SkySki, it's killing me. You have posted numerous images that I really want to see, but they won't open on my machine. I click on the image, a window pops up, the page grays out, but no image is ever displayed. I'd love to see your schematics and photos of where you placed your fill ports. Is there any chance that you'd be willing to post them somewhere else where they can be more easily opened? Am I the only one who can't open them? Thanks for detailing your experience. fyi experiencing trouble viewing also Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I am on my phone and don't have a problem seeing the pictures. I started a near mirror thread on WW here - http://www.wakeworld.com/forum/showthread.php?t=797238&page=999 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SkySki Posted August 9, 2013 Author Report Share Posted August 9, 2013 I am having problems with pictures too - I can see them in the thread, but get a message that I don't have permission to view the attachment when I click the photo. I sent a note to the administrator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slugger Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 Do you currently have anything on that accy switch? You can use that to turn the stereo on and off. Just wire the RED wire from the stereo to the switch. Assuming the switch has power, when you turn the switch on the headunit will see it the same way it sees ignition keyup. Hey Shawndoggy Sorry for a complete noob question, but do you need to remove the red wire off the ignition switch and relocate it to the spare accy switch? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shawndoggy Posted February 13, 2014 Report Share Posted February 13, 2014 find the red wire from the stereo harness. then cut it, and wire it to the output from the switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SacSurfer242 Posted April 15, 2014 Report Share Posted April 15, 2014 Thia might be a dumb qurstion but what size hole saw was used for the 1" thru-hull fittings? 1 1/8 to clear the threads? A 1" bit looks a bit small Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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