1manplan Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Ok I might sound stupid but I always put it to all I didn't understand the 1 and 2...so I left it on all by mistake for a week inside shop and last nite noticed boat batts were dead...i stuck a quick charge for 8hrs...boat fired up in morning and 2hrs later when i got 2 lake it didn't turn over dead....so I had to get 2 new batts cause I figured they were bad being they started before I left and know are dead....so how do I use this switch and what causes batts to die when nothing is on or maybe it was just time for new batts on 2014 f22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1manplan Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I do notice all amps and my additional amp is on one battery 3 total and to the right it's a single power wire idk what it goes 2 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
halfmoon Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Not sure if this right, but how I've been using my battery switch for years... switch 1 (1 battery) is dedicated as the starting battery while switch 2 (2 batteries) is dedicated as the accessory batteries. While starting and driving I have it on switch one and while floating and just listening to music I have it on switch two. I never have my switch on both. I let the alternator charge the starting battery and have an onboard dual battery charger for the accessory batteries that get charged at home. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Donfather Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I have always run on both. We don't evry just sit and crank the stereo although. I have heard if your drain the stock batteries all the way down to zero, they won't take a recharge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1manplan Posted June 25, 2017 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Ok I usually do both just didn't know if I'm doing something wrong...i sit play music have surf lights on and start boat every now and then so I don't drain em to low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsmobiledriver Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 Being a 14 is not shocking to need batteries. Batteries suck these days and most interstates or AC Delco I sell only last around 4 years before they start giving trouble.... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldsmobiledriver Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 I quit selling Interetate and I am now a Deka dealer. Only had them a year, so far good! I have an Interstate as my stereo battery but it's always on a trickle charger when parked and I just bought a Deka a few months ago for my starting Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake (((O))) Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 You only run both when 1 won't start the boat. Period. Otherwise it's just like carrying around a flat spare tire. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted June 25, 2017 Report Share Posted June 25, 2017 2 dead batteries over a week is a worth while draw that needs chasing. Given how MB wires the switch and banks, you are forced to run on BOTH or #2 while engine is running and using stereo. Otherwise, you will end up with a dead #2 bank. dakota4ce 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake (((O))) Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Do what you will but running on both eliminates having 2 batteries, you now have 1 big battery. Not a good idea. If the stereo kills the battery so what, start the boat on 1 and switch to 2. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B_RAD Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I have a 2016, everything is wired to battery 1. I leave the switch on 1. If the battery goes dead then switch it to battery 2 to start it. I'm assuming 2 is the back up. If you have an more elaborate stereo system then you may want to explore other options. FYI, there is very good chance I do not know what I'm talking about. oldsmobiledriver, Hyperryd and Mucker626 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I have a 2016, everything is wired to battery 1. I leave the switch on 1. If the battery goes dead then switch it to battery 2 to start it. I would hope not. This would make the # battery useless. Everything, minus the auto bilge, should be wired to the common post of the switch. This means, which ever battery the switch is turned to, is what the boat draws from. This allows the boat to power off #1, #2 or BOTH. In the case of MB, they wire most everything boat related, to the common post of the switch. However, the amp get wired directly to battery #2. This forces you to keep the switch in the BOTH or #2 while running the engine, making it easier to forget and leave it on BOTH while anchored. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
breakz77 Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I would hope not. This would make the # battery useless. Everything, minus the auto bilge, should be wired to the common post of the switch. This means, which ever battery the switch is turned to, is what the boat draws from. This allows the boat to power off #1, #2 or BOTH. In the case of MB, they wire most everything boat related, to the common post of the switch. However, the amp get wired directly to battery #2. This forces you to keep the switch in the BOTH or #2 while running the engine, making it easier to forget and leave it on BOTH while anchored. I find this hard to believe that the amps would only be wired to battery #2 At Shasta I had only the stereo on and the battery switched to #1 and it drained only that battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake (((O))) Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 It only gets left on both if you CHOOSE to run it that way. Which you should NEVER do. Break, my 13 was wired the way he is saying. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperryd Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 Note to self, the factory guys kind of suck at doing any wiring consistently any way. I have run across many configurations of switches and amp wiring. Monday boats are one way and Thursday boats are another as far as I can tell. Depends on who was on vacation on that build date too. Such is the love with hand made boats. Great quality, but lots of room for variance. Racer808 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 I find this hard to believe that the amps would only be wired to battery #2 At Shasta I had only the stereo on and the battery switched to #1 and it drained only that battery. Every MB ive come across, has the amps wired battery direct. Maybe #, maybe #, makes no real difference, battery direct is battery direct. Fallow the amps B+ and see where it terminates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted June 26, 2017 Report Share Posted June 26, 2017 It only gets left on both if you CHOOSE to run it that way. Which you should NEVER do. Break, my 13 was wired the way he is saying. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Heres the issue. most boat dealer personnel do not have a clue has to how these boats are wired and how to properly use or best use the switch, depending on how it it wires. Therefore, buyers float away from the lot not knowing how it works either. Now we have a problem. Audio wired direct to one battery, you have the switch turned to the other because some you should never run on both. A few hours into the day, stereo goes dead because its not seen one volt of alternator input. Operator drops anchor, turns switch to get radio back on. Few hours later, both batteries dead and you get the tow of shame. So, dont misunderstand my posts. Im not advocating running the switch on both, im explaining the scenario due to how MB wires their boats. You cant change how to use the switch, without changing how the switch is wired. Hyperryd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake (((O))) Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 It only gets left on both if you CHOOSE to run it that way. Which you should NEVER do. Break, my 13 was wired the way he is saying. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Heres the issue. most boat dealer personnel do not have a clue has to how these boats are wired and how to properly use or best use the switch, depending on how it it wires. Therefore, buyers float away from the lot not knowing how it works either. Now we have a problem. Audio wired direct to one battery, you have the switch turned to the other because some you should never run on both. A few hours into the day, stereo goes dead because its not seen one volt of alternator input. Operator drops anchor, turns switch to get radio back on. Few hours later, both batteries dead and you get the tow of shame. So, dont misunderstand my posts. Im not advocating running the switch on both, im explaining the scenario due to how MB wires their boats. You cant change how to use the switch, without changing how the switch is wired. Perfect example! The proper reaction is to start the boat, switch to the DEAD BATTERY. DO NOT TOUCH SWITCH!!!! Use common sense to figure it out from here, you better not shut off the fucking boat until you charge that baby up! But if you're still really dumb and do happen to instinctively turn the boat off (guilty) the other battery (or as I call it, "spare tire") is still fully charged. Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hyperryd Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Or... do what I do. Use a continuous duty HD relay or solenoid to isolate the two batteries when you turn off the ignition. You never forget that way. When the stereo starts to cut out just turn the key and start the boat and both batteries are charging. Another idea is dual volt meters so you know what is going on in each bank. Then be a little proactive and turn the volume down when you are getting low on the stereo bank. The Donfather, Budman and clovenburg 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer808 Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Same problem here, they wired one of the amps to work off either battery but the interior speaker amp is wired direct to battery 1. I just leave it the switch on All anymore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CTPJ Posted June 27, 2017 Report Share Posted June 27, 2017 Or... do what I do. Use a continuous duty HD relay or solenoid to isolate the two batteries when you turn off the ignition. You never forget that way. When the stereo starts to cut out just turn the key and start the boat and both batteries are charging. Another idea is dual volt meters so you know what is going on in each bank. Then be a little proactive and turn the volume down when you are getting low on the stereo bank. I like your setup. Could you share how you wired the two volt meters? Thanks, Todd Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GullLakeMi Posted June 22, 2020 Report Share Posted June 22, 2020 Digging up old thread. I understand reason for running on 1 or 2 to keep other as spare. My boat is on a lift at end of dock. I don't have power out there to trickle charge. I also don't run radio when engine is not running. I have had trouble with batteries going dead, fortunately only at the dock. I've been inconsistent in past between using 1, 2, or all when running. Just replaced the original batteries in my 2015 and want to make sure I operate correctly going forward. Any other issue running on "all"? Another old thread says running on "all" can cause alternator issues. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wylietunes Posted June 23, 2020 Report Share Posted June 23, 2020 If the batteries are going dead when the boat is not in use, then its likely not how you use the switch while using the boat. However, this does not include putting the boat away with one battery dead because it has loads wired directly to that battery, and the switch was not on that battery or BOTH. I would look to see what loads, other then the auto bilge, are wired direct to a battery, circumventing the switch. Wire through the switch and most likely your dead batteries while on the lift issue, goes away. Even better, swap the 1/2/BOTH/OFF Perko for a OFF/ON/BOTH Blueseas and an ACR. No more monitoring the switch while on the water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oboyskibum Posted June 25, 2020 Report Share Posted June 25, 2020 Is this the ACR you would suggest https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RZNP5K/ref=twister_B01DVOH5W2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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