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Slappers (KCSO) - Part 1


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I have had several people ask for information and/or a parts list of some kind for DIY Goose Slappers so I have finally gathered up some information here to share and hopefully be of some help.

 

First off, I have gathered up some of the relevant threads over the last few years on the subject.  These threads include pictures, videos, lessons learned, and how to information and may or not be helpful so all is FWIW. Feel free to comment, contribute, or disregard B)

 

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/1606-2013-modifications-are-done/?hl=modifications

 

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/2994-2014-modifications-are-finally-done/

 

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/3194-diy-surf-gate-youtube/page-1

 

http://www.themalibucrew.com/index.php?/forums/topic/40613-teakgate/&page=1  (This thread is from the Malibu Crew Forum and is a great read on the evolution of the Wakelogic Controller that a lot of us up in the PNW are using)

 

 

Here is a parts list of everything you will need for this project along with approximate costs of the major parts (Im not going to include source links as with a little research and google there are deals to be found all over)

 

2 each - heavy duty Goose Slappers $25 - $50 Each

 

post-1153-0-79171700-1461866431_thumb.jpg

 

I have found 3/4" thick HDPE (King Starboard) works the best and delivers the most efficient slap to the geese. 1/2" is a little to thin and flexible and may only stun the goose and 1" thick is just overkill.  slappers should be approximately 22-24" long and approximately 10-12" tall for maximum surface contact with the goose. ideal deployment angle is between 20-24 degrees deflection off the side of the hull. 

 

2 each - 4-1/4" stroke Lenco actuators $170 - $200 Each

 

There are a few choices here. There are standard duty, heavy duty, regular speed, and high speed.

I have used all of these and I don't really see much difference in performance between the standard duty and the heavy duty. when using the heavy duty though an extra part is needed for the connection point between the end of the actuator and the mounting bracket.  The high speed actuators deploy and retract in about 2.5 seconds and are preferred especially if you can or someday want to do wake to wake transfers. The slower actuators retract and deploy in about 6-7 seconds which doesn't seem like much difference but in a wake to wake transfer it can be a lifetime.

 

Here are some Lenco part numbers:

 

post-1153-0-08369900-1461866640_thumb.jpgpost-1153-0-80643000-1461866651_thumb.jpg

 

Standard Duty slow speed - 102S - Part number 15059-001

Standard Duty high speed - 102F - Part number 15129-001

 

 

Heavy Duty slow speed - 102HD - Part Number 15060-001

Heavy Duty high speed - 102HD - Part Number 15130-001

 

 

As I mentioned above if you use the Heavy duty actuators you will need a couple of 1" Stainless Steel Bimini parts like these. $15 - $20 each. The standard duty actuators have high density plastic tips to connect to the mounting brackets however the HD actuators connect to a different style bracket. You can use these bimini parts by drilling out the set screw hole through the tip and through bolt it to the end of the actuator.

 

post-1153-0-96290800-1461866669_thumb.jpg

 

Actuator Mounts - 2 sets (3 brackets come in the set, 2 styles of upper mounts and 1 lower mount along with some mounting pins and a gland seal for the wire) $20 - $30 per set.

 

post-1153-0-61329100-1461866691.jpg

 

These typically don't come with the actuators so make sure you ask whoever you are buying from.

 

Switches / Controller. Here is where the biggest cost variable can come into play.

 

post-1153-0-52427200-1461866742.jpg

 

Cheapest is to just use a simple on/off/on momentary switch to control each actuator. there are many different styles out there to choose from (toggle, carling, automotive power window style, etc.. and can range from $10 - $50. With this set up you will basically manually control the movement of each actuator.

 

post-1153-0-28855300-1461866723_thumb.png

 

For around $300 - $400 you can use Lenco's Tactile switch and brain box. This gives you a good quality rubberized switch with indicator lights showing you how far out the slapper is. It is still a manual control however the brain box gives you "key off" automatic retraction of the actuators for safety. *** You cant just use any Lenco brain box though, it needs to be specific for the 4-1/4" actuators. Lenco part number 30109-001***

 

Finally there are a handful of people out there who have developed more automatic controllers that allow more automated control of the actuators including retract and deploy based on speed "windows", automatic side to side transfers with the push of a button, and wireless remotes that the rider wears and can then initiate there own transfers for perfect timing. 

 

post-1153-0-25170900-1461866473_thumb.jpg

 

I included the link above to MartinArcher's thread over on TMC. He is the developer of the WakeLogic controller.

Obviously there are a couple guys over here on the MB forum who are or have developed some pretty trick controllers themselves (DBrayton and Hyperryd)

 

Costs of these controllers seem to be around $500 - $1200.

 

Hinges (Stainless Steel) - 4 each - $15 - $40 each

 

post-1153-0-34161300-1461866516_thumb.jpgpost-1153-0-53373000-1461866682_thumb.jpg

 

Make sure these are of sufficient thickness, there are some cheap hinges out there. either 3-1/2" or 4-1/2" common door hinges work well. I like Stanley hinges. seem to be good quality.

 

Stainless Steel carriage bolts w/ nylock nuts. - 18 to 22 each depending on how many holes your hinges have (3 or 4)

 

post-1153-0-72195600-1461866760_thumb.jpg

 

these are used to connect the lower actuator mount to the trailing end of the slapper and the hinges to the leading edge. If you like some other style of bolt that's fine, I like the carriage bolts because they have a nice clean look to them. Once you have drilled all of the holes in the slapper you can tap the bolts with a hammer and "embed" the square "key' under the head into the plastic easily so it sits flush.

 

Stainless Steel hex head bolts and nylock nuts - 4 to 6 depending on weather you are using the standard actuators or the HD ones with the bimini  parts.

 

post-1153-0-65992900-1461866768_thumb.jpg

 

These are used for the actuator to bracket connections and the bimini adaptor to the actuator tip.

 

Stainless Steel screws - 18 - 22 each depending on how many holes in the hinges (3 or 4)

 

post-1153-0-68498400-1461866780_thumb.jpg

 

These are used to connect the upper actuator bracket to the boat and the hinges to the boat. Some people feel the need to through bolt al the way through the transom, personally and from experience I don't think that is necessary and screws work just fine.

 

Other than that just some miscellaneous electrical parts (butt connectors, wire, and wire loom is all you need to Keep Calm and Slap On B)

 

Finally, Here is a link to the Part 2 Thread - Installation

 

http://www.mbboatowners.com/index.php/topic/4348-slappers-kcso-part-2-installation/

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